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This is Trattoria alla Madonna, just off the Rialto, in Venice. I first found this gem in 1970, and since then I have established a personal tradition of having my first luncheon here on any trip to Venice. And always the same classic menu: spaghetti alla vongole and fegato all Veneziana. What a wonderful way to start a visit to this magical city. Both recipes, of course, are available here: spaghetti con vongole and fegato all Veneziana.

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